Frank Sonsiziefall

I think I recollect at our shop , that there was a affix you can put on gear to repair a fleck molar on the pinion balderdash brake gear on this tractor projection that keeps multiply problems❗️👀🤓 I got going
I plant this in the muck of the differential ,. This a specail gear with a very uncommon 25 degree DP. And so the chance of getting the right one are slim .
Distressing no photos of gear , poor visibility, in differential , and I must verify the gear it came.
It ther a braze for chipped gear repair ❓

Drill, insert pin/south, build upward with weld and auto to size.

Mikel

I watched several videos of missing teeth being rebuilt with brazing (standard rod afaik) on Youtube a couple of weeks agone, you should exist able to find them. But you still need to re-machine the new teeth out of the built upwardly brazing bronze, for most people that'due south going to be the existent challenge.

If the gear is oestrus treated, no luck. In not than brazing with standard LFB is/was pretty common on cast gears. All depends what it was made out of, what the expectation is, and why the original failed.

Quote Originally Posted past Mikel_24 View Post

Drill, insert pin/s, build upward with weld and machine to size.

Mikel

this gear came off a south bend lathe in our shop. it was the workhorse of the machine shop and the repair held. just obviously 7018 no pins. no pre heat simply very dull cool down.

Quote Originally Posted by K-son View Post

I watched several videos of missing teeth being rebuilt with brazing (standard rod afaik) on Youtube a couple of weeks ago, yous should be able to detect them. But yous still demand to re-machine the new teeth out of the built upward brazing bronze, for most people that's going to be the real challenge.

i've heard erstwhile stories around here of brazing new teeth on. even onto gearbox gears.
typically hand filed into shape. just the trick was non to worry to much about machining it as information technology just wears into shape.

however a catch for a diff is the oil yous use. diff oil volition swallow brazing. need to use gearbox oil (eg gl4) thats fabricated for brass syncro's.

more than likely the diff has cleaved the pinion because its setup is way out. when yous rebuild it, have a wait at moving the contact patch a chip deeper and so information technology keeps it off the repaired part.

https://www.randysworldwide.com/

This where to await for beam data, tech resource page.

Ane thing I learned in my apprenticeship is that gears are no where about as authentic as I had e'er idea, a gear that size can easily be profiled by hand after repair, disc grinder, dice grinder and files.

Quote Originally Posted past makoman1860 View Post

If the gear is heat treated, no luck. In not than brazing with standard LFB is/was pretty mutual on cast gears. All depends what information technology was made out of, what the expectation is, and why the original failed.

Gear is heat treated .

Quote Originally Posted by docwelder View Post

this gear came off a s curve lathe in our shop. information technology was the workhorse of the machine shop and the repair held. only patently 7018 no pins. no pre heat but very tiresome absurd down.

Squeamish work , I like the presentation

Quote Originally Posted by 560Dennis View Post

Gear is heat treated .

Well in that example if you want any kind of life or dependability out of it, you are SOL. What are your expectations of the repair?

ford tractor 53 second gear had 3 teeth broke and a big cleft in trans from the drain plug to the dorsum... ready case scissure useing 7018 but welded like a cast rod 1 inch at a fourth dimension took like 6 hours.... the gear i utilise a lxxx,000 lb stainless rod calorie-free pre estrus welded upwardly and reshaped with a drelma ,than put a slice of masking record on repair and rotated gear too mesh with other gear and that showed me my highs .... turned out very expert, but will be looking for a replacement trans because iam sure it wont terminal for ever......

My routine for missing gear tooth is every bit follows.

ER312 combined with tig welder. Degrease, dry, add together a niggling 312, permit cool. When cool add together some more in the right place but do non let it heat upward likewise much, and once again let cool. Echo equally required until done and reshape with dremel. The absolute master in this technique is Jeff Lockhart aka GrumpyCricket.

I've replaced missing gear molar with Ni-cad cold weld....

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